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18th October 2003
 Arrived in Santiago around 9 PM.
After bidding farewell to Scott Lemon I
straightway took a taxi to the guest house named Residencial Alemena",
located in the central Santiago suburb of Republica, along the main Alemeda
Avenue. This was my third choice, as the more preferred Residencial Londres
(where most backpackers stay) was fully booked. This will put me in some
disadvantage, as I will miss the opportunity to meet some interesting
travellers, hear their enriching experiences and stories - I am finding it
most invaluable source of information as I travel. Anyway the place was not
bad, basic but comfortable and clean large rooms in an old colonial style
building with high ceilings - actually quite good for US$14 a night in
central Santiago.
That evening I had my dinner at a local eatery. It is owned by a Bolivian
living in Chile, and is sort of a meeting place for Bolivians living in that
part of central Santiago. Many Bolivians were watching news on political
changes in Bolivia and bursting into loud cheers. I understood some with my
very limited Spanish. My limited Spanish is going to be a problem in Chile,
I learned in Rapa Nui that very few people in Chile speak or understand
English. Anyway, I will somehow get by, like the old sailing days - and
hoping that my Spanish will gradually improve.
19th October 2003
Went around the central Santiago. Except for Ahumeda pedestrian mall
everything else was closed. Even there, only street vendors were open -
although there was a large crowd milling around all day. Luckily a Kodak
shop was open, I got 5 rolls of films developed and printed for a reasonable
price (1 hr service) - these were from Rapa Nui and Tahiti. Surprisingly
most came out quite good - considering my recent interest in photography. I
plan to mail all the prints to Sydney, as I do not want to increase the
weight of my backpack - it is already about 15 Kg.
As a sailor I have been to many Spanish-speaking countries, including Spain
- and always found Spanish speakers are very chatty, expressive and noisy -
but one thing struck me, that Chileans are much quieter and reserved in
manner as they go about their daily business - there must be some underlying
reasons for this distinct behavioural difference - is it due their recent
suppressed political environment? or is it because of some unique regional
roots of the Spanish migrants in Chile? Or both, or something else that I do
not know?
20th October 2003
First thing, I booked my ferry passage for Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales
trip - 5 nights and 4day trip in a cargo-cum passenger vessel through the
Chilean fjords and little bit of Pacific. These vessels depart once in a
week, and the cheaper tickets get sold very quickly.
I also bought a bus Ticket for the 10-hour trip from Santiago to Pucon. My
tentative plan now is to leave Santiago for Pucon on 22nd, and then from
there decide my route to Puerto Montt, in order to arrive there on time to
catch the ferry to Puerto Natales.
Before lunch mailed the photographs to Sydney - kept the negatives with me
as a safety. After lunch somehow finished my Rapa Nui diary.
I spent the late afternoon and evening walking around Barrio Brazil area of
Santiago, considered the bohemian part of the city – did not notice many
bohemians- I guess everything is a bit subdued in Chile.
21st October 2003
I was walking past the Chilean Presidential Palace, La Mondea. It is the
seat of the Chilli’s presidential system of
Government, where President Alende died fighting off the Pinochet coup.
Considering the quite modern and spacious lay out of Santiago city with its
wide avenues and wide pedestrian walks, the Presidential palace was most
unimpressive.
It just occupies an ordinary city block, with a most unimpressive entrance.
If I was not particularly looking for it, I might have missed it among the
other colonial style Government offices. Anyway, I was lucky someway, as I
was walking past, the morning change of guard for the palace was taking
place, and I got few shots - nothing spectacular though.
Next, I headed for the Mapuche (named after original Indian tribes) culture
centre – it was a long walk. I was enjoying my favourite past time -
watching Chileans of various walks of life going about their daily life - a
bit leisurely, but quite efficient otherwise – people generally spent a lot
of time exchanging courteous pleasantries, before getting down to actual
business. Lot of street vendors hawking many goods like any other South
American country - but in Chile they are very clean and vendors generally
are very gentle and well dressed, more like schoolteachers or merchant
office clerks.
There was nothing on at Mapuche centre at that hour, so I took the subway to
Santa Lucia.
Sanata Lucia is a natural hillock, about 700m high, right at the centre of
Santiago. It has been turned into a spiralling vertical park, with viewing
platforms all around it at different elevation, and off course at the top. I
walked up slowly, taking shots at various level. From the ground level one
cannot see that Santiago is surrounded by high Andean ranges on the three
sides - from Santa Lucia it becomes quite apparent. One thing struck me -
although, it was an absolutely clear sunny day without any cloud or fog,
there was a thick haze all over the city - I asked around – it is the
permanent smog over Santiago from all the carbon emissions in the city,
which being locked all around by Andes, never clears - rendering Santiago a
most permanently polluted city in the world. Santiagoeans now lament - the
city should have been built somewhere else - but they are stuck with it.
Here at one of the platforms I met couple of Israelis, one said that he had
been to Dhaka quite a few times!
Here, I also met a young Australian named Paul, since finishing his
University degree, he is on the road for last eighteen months - he has no
plan to go home soon - he has covered North America and most of the South
America - he will be heading toward Peru through the northern Chilean
deserts.
Next, after a quick lunch I headed for the San Crystobal at the tip of
Belavista area in north Santiago. Belavista is a vibrant area, full of
restaurants, a favourite eating out place for the middle class Chileans,
students, backpackers and other tourists.
At the top of Belavista is San Crystobal hill with a height of around 1500m,
named after the church at the top of the hill. The hill is the most visited
entertainment park in Santiago. Chilean National zoo is located at the slope
of this hill; there are other children’s parks, picnic areas and numerous
viewing platforms and plazas all around the hill. There are four ways to go
up: drive through the winding roads going up all around the hill; walk or
jog along the road; then there is tram type Funicular, which goes straight
up at a 45 degree angle; and finally there is an extended cable car system.
For US$4, I bought round trips on both Funicular and cable car. I went up in
Funicular; from the top funicular station there are further few hundred
meters of stairways leading up, through a terraced garden, to the feet of a
Virgin Mary statue at the apex of the hill; I went up to the top to take a
few shots of the statue and the hazy Santiago city and Andes. Rest of the
afternoon explored the hill and took a round trip in cable car.
Guess what - who did I meet here, an Indian (living in Australia) named
Joseph, and what else, he is a Marine Engineer stopping by returning from a
ship!
In the evening I was looking for Al-Karim, yes Al-Karim Restaurant
(Recommended by Lonely Planet) - to have my dinner. Eventually I found it,
but alas, its kitchen has burnt out few days back in a fire, they are only
serving drinks. I had my dinner in another restaurant and returned to the
guesthouse.
Chilean food is somewhat bland, more like north European - mostly beef and
chicken, roasted or grilled and with mesh potato, French fries or salad.
Central Santiago has a fantastic subway system - very clean, efficient and
cheap public transport system. Buses are numerous - running till very late.
I felt quite safe walking around till very late - presence of Carbaineries
(police) is quite visible - probably a few good things left from the
Pinochet era.
Here I must mention another interesting thing, from Easter Island onward I
have raised curiosity to many locals - not surprising, as I was the only
Moreno (brown) among the passing backpackers and tourists - many came up to
me to ask where I am from - as I did not speak much Spanish, otherwise I
could be from any number of South American countries.
Their guess was always right, Indian or Indiano (meaning from Indian
subcontinent) - indigenous Rapa Nuis invariably gave me an enthusiastic firm
and welcoming handshake, when I confirmed it. Most mainland Chileans were
also very enthusiastic and tried to strike a deep conversation - my limited
Spanish and their limited English did not allow it to go very far – However,
in one occasion, a Chilean expressed surprise that how can a Moreno Indian be
also an Australian!
- I gave him such a dirty look that he shrunk away.
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