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Wednesday, 22 October 2003
Around midday I started for Pucon. Here I must mention the different classes
of seats in the Chilean long distance buses: economic (I am travelling),
Executivo or half lying and Premiere or full lying seats. Later two classes
are generally included in the night buses. My bus was all-economic class,
with long leg rooms and that feature is proudly and prominently displayed at
the front of the bus. Economic fare was around US$10, fare for other two
classes are respectively around double and triple of that.
Anyway, very soon we were out of Santiago, and the highway had nowhere else
to go in lean and long Chile, it is always going dead south except for minor
bends around the hills. Landscape all the way was beautiful alpine terrain
with fertile narrow valleys and ever-present snow capped Andean ranges on
our left. On the way, the bus had many stops - San Fernando, Chilan, Los
Angoles, Temuco Viaricca, and wherever anybody raised hand in many
designated stops. It took us around 10 hours to reach Pucon, we arrived
there at around 11 PM.
Although, I had some addresses of guesthouses in Pucon. But I had no
opportunity to try them, a very gentle Senor Victor Gallogos, the owner of
Guesthouse Victor was there to take me to his guesthouse, located next to
the bus stop. He is such a gentleman, when I showed him the other addresses,
he thought I have a booking with them and offered me a lift there, I was
really impressed and the staffs of the bus, whom I befriended during the
trip also vouched for Victor. So I went with Victor to his guesthouse
($8/night) - next morning at the breakfast table, even gentler Senora Victor
offered me a discount ($6/night) this ‘price included a single room, clean
and modern shared toilets, a common lounge room with cable TV and a computer
with unlimited internet access and use of a fully equipped kitchen (most
backpackers cook their dinner), is not that great - looks like I am in good
company.
Thursday, 23rd October
This morning I had my first walkabout around Pucon. It is a small town in
Chilean Arucania, considered a backpackers Mecca for this region. It has an
amazing setting, at the shore of Lake Viaricca and at the foot of the active
volcano Viaricca, and snow capped Andes blocking the eastern horizon (one
can not escape Andes anywhere in Chile, it is always there). It was in 1980,
when the volcano erupted last time - that was a minor eruption, in a
previous eruption in 1971 the town narrowly escaped, lava flowed around it
and into the lake. Many here believe that the town will remain the tourist
center of this region until it is eventually wiped out by the Volcano. All
around Pucon there are many lakes, national parks, and quite a few volcanos,
active and dead - it is due to its central location in this amazing
landscape that attracts backpackers and tourists from all over the world.
I liked the place and decided to spend a bit more time in this area and
changed my travel plan - and accordingly made the necessary bookings. On
next Wednesday I will head for Bariloche in Argentina, I will stay there for
a day before taking a combined bus and Catamaran trip crossing seven lakes
back to Puerto Montt in Chile. From Puerto Montt I will take a 4-day and 5
night ferry ride through Chilean Fjords and glaciers to Puerto Natales in
Magelanes in the deep South.
In the afternoon the weather turned bad, whipping winds and light rain, me
and the other boarders were forced to stayed in – that gave us an
opportunity to get to know each other. There are quite a few, two young
English couple, a middle-aged professor like American (was very curious
about me, otherwise dull) and most interestingly, a Basque (Spanish) couple
Anna and Joshu. Anna speaks good English, Joshu´s is a bit halting - they
are also on a tour of South America, already covered Ecuador, Peru Argentina
and South of Chile. Both are very well read and well informed, conversation
jumped from topic to topic; India, Harrappa Mohenjodaro, Spanish
colonisation of South America and recent cocarello trouble in Bolivia, to
name a few. Anna and Joshu became very friendly, and invited me to join them
next day; they were planning to go white water rafting and four-wheel
motorbike riding along the Lava trail of volcano Viaricca – I meekly agreed
to go with them.
Later as the weather cleared just before sunset, we went out for dinner
together.
Friday, 24th October
Morning was sunny and bright, so we stuck with our plan for rafting and
mountain motor biking. This was my first white water rafting; I knew nothing
about white water rafting and just went along (Anna and Joshu had previous experience). The guide explained the basic tricks and assured me that it will
be fine, as it is a medium difficulty rapid (rated 3.5 on a scale of 0 to 6)
– well I had be reassured, I could not turn back now. Including the guide we
were only four people on the raft, although it normally can accommodate up
to eight people. We all were in our wet suits and life jackets. The guide
cum skipper gave us some instruction on rowing techniques and particularly
the procedure to follow if anybody is tossed overboard; one cannot swim in
these rapids, so one must lay on his/her back, with feets in the direction
of the current and as far up as possible - this is to allow use of the legs
and ore to save one from colliding with the boulders.
On the first rapid I instinctively stopped rowing and grabbed the side rope
to prevent myself from being tossed overboard. The guide shouted that if I
keep rowing the boat and me both would remain more stable. I followed his
instruction and found out how correct he is, soon I got the rhythm of the
rapids and started enjoying it like hell.
We were going down Rio Trancura and then through a confluence of two rivers
into Rio Liucura. There were many rapids, particularly tough two were
confluence of two rivers and a massive rapid where there was a whirlpool
created by a hole in the riverbed. We did pretty well, completed the 12 km
route in about an hour, most importantly without being tossed overboard or
getting injured. The adreline rush at the rapids were unbelievable - I never
thought I could row continuously for more than ten
minutes even in calm waters. VETO BANGALI FELT GREAT.
Same afternoon (sunset is around 8:30 PM) we also took four wheel motorbike
ride along the lava trails up the active volcano Viaricca. It takes a little
bit of practicing, but then it became quite thrilling and exciting up and
down the boulder strewn steep slopes. The bikes have a low center of gravity
and, therefore quite stable if handled carefully. While returning down the
slope, weather was turning bad and it started drizzling and the trails were
getting slippery on the downward slopes, we came down slowly with careful
use of the brakes. - The guide was very experienced he led the way up and
down.
On return to the guest house we learned that due to the weather in the
afternoon, all Volcano (3000m high) climbing parties were turned down from
the two-third of the way, and an Australian has broken two ribs from a slip
and 300meter slide on the slope of the Volcano (Volcano climbing would have
been too much for me at this age, so I firmly kept it out of my list).
25th October 2003
Weather turned terrible from the previous night, stayed in all day chatting
with the other English boarders. Joshu and Anna were so tired from previous
days activity they did not get up till afternoon. In the evening as the
weather abated, me Joshu and Anna went out to a sort of farewell dinner, as
they will be leaving on the next day. Over dinner we had such a lively
discussion about Castro, Che Guevara to Gore Vidal and Noam Chulmsky, and
what not- Basques are a big fan of Castro and Che. We almost gathered the
whole restaurant around us. Bilingual Anna was the biggest attraction to
both foreigners and Chileans - she was interpreting for one group or the
other.
As we returned to the guesthouse, I bade goodnight and good bye to Anna and
Joshu, as very early on the next morning I am to go on a day trip to
Valdivia on the pacific coast.
26th October 2003
Early in the morning I started for Valdivia, a small city at the confluence
of Valdivia and Calle Calle River, on the pacific coast. This was the first
time I was going some distance from east to west, about three hours bus
journey from Pucon. It was still cloudy and drizzling when I arrived
there around 11:30 AM. What to do, ignoring the drizzle I took a walk along
the river bank from the bus terminal to the ferry terminal near the bustling
fish market. Compared to Australia, fishes are dirt-cheap here; fresh
Salmons were selling for AUD 2.50.
My MORENO colour drew some attention, many vendors and few customers asked
me the obvious question, and hearing my answer, gave me a broad (I knew it)
smile, shook my hand vigorously, muttering “muito bien - muito bien”.
I moved on to the ferry terminal and booked for a river cruise going to the
river mouth at Pacific, which included visits to two Spanish forts on two
volcanic islands near the river mouth. The cruise was to start around 1:45
PM; I had about an hour and half to look around the town. I headed for the
town plaza few block up the slope from the riverbank.
There was some sort of concert going on at the plaza, with lot of red
banners, lot of emotional cheering and rousing speeches, interspersed with
chorus songs. I thought, this must be some sort of political rally,
particularly seeing so many red flags and banners I thought it must be a
rally of Alende´s party. There were many police around, who reinforced my
assumption - I took out my Camera, and even asked a police officer, whether
I can take some photograph - he nodded yes - and I happily started taking
shots of that supposed political Rally.
But soon I realised, I have been deceived by the red flags and police
presence - this was no political rally - rather a sort of church organised
concert of some sort.
Who would have thought that a church concert could be so emotionally charged
and with red banners and requiring heavy police presence – at least I did
not. A very disappointed me went to have lunch and then to the terminal to
join the cruise.
The cruise was quite scenic; Valdivia is located at the confluence of few
river estuaries. But it is quite different from estuaries in the plains
(Like Bangladesh), it is all volcanic structure - rivers are flowing along
the original lava flows, twisting and bending sharply around volcanic rocks
and flats and plateaus (on one of which Valdivia is located) - water is
clean and deep - shores are steep and lush green covering rich volcanic soil
- there are no mangroves or swamps. The Spanish forts were pretty ordinary -
a poor attempt to make history out of the Spanish colonisation of these
areas.
On the boat I met another young Australian Couple from Sydney, most of the
return trip was spent chatting with them - they are on a month long trip of
South America. The Boat was very slow and did not return in time and I
missed my bus to Pucon – luckily I got a seat on the last bus at 8:00PM and
returned to Pucon around 11:00PM.
Monday, 27 October and Tuesday 28 October
Today i went to Curarrehue, supposed to be the centre of Mapuchu Indians –
there are many Mapuche people in that small town near the Argentine border,
but very little of their Indian Identity remains. There was a small museum
on Mapuche people - but it was dismal - two small rooms with few Mapuche
festival photographs and few weapons and fishing gears. These brave people
have completely been pushed to the background. This area and surroundings
around Pucon is considered Mapuchu heartland and still mentioned in the
official publications as such.
Mapuche Indians did put up stiff resistant against Spanish colonialists, on
many occasions almost wiping out or burning down the Spanish outposts
including Santiago. Chile was only able to establish its sovereignty over
the Mapuchu people as late as early 20th century. Now, very little of their
culture remained, I even could not find a place to try some authentic
Mapuche food. However, there are lot of Mapuchu handicrafts available in
Pucon and other regional centers - although, none in Curarrehue.
Spent the afternoon at the shore of magnificent Lake Coburga, about 27km
from Pucon.
Pucon and the amazing surrounding landscapes - the foundation was laid out
by the brute volcanos millions of years ago, and then wind and rain etched
it for millions of years to bring it to its current magnificent form.
It is the beginning of the spring, surrounding mountains are full of fresh
and lush light green leaves, surrounding forests, rivers, lakes and
mountains naturally meld so well into each other that it is almost like a
very large well kept and manicured Japanese garden. The area is sparsely
populated and Chileans are very dedicatedly marinating the purity of the
environment.
On the 28th I visited Lican Ray and Conaripe, another two unspoiled spots
around here (respectively30 and 60 k from Pucon), both are along the shore
of lake Lican Ray. Lican ray is so quiet - when I arrived there at midday, I
could here only the birds and swans, as if its few inhabitants were still
asleep.
For all my day trips around Pucon I used local buses, they are dirt cheap
(USD 0.80 for a 60k trip), clean and timely, and run by very well mannered
driver cum conductors. Chile’s road transport system overall is quite
impressive - it is as good as anywhere in the world, but at such a low
price. Each bus company’s countrywide ticket booking system is computer
networked like the airlines, fares are standard and service everywhere is
excellent. It really is a surprise for me, compared to many other SA
countries.
Tomorrow I will head for Bariloche in Argentina; I will stay there for a day
before taking a combined bus and Catamaran trip crossing three lakes and few
passes back to Puerto Montt in Chile. From Puerto Montt I will take a ferry
ride through Chilean Fjords and glaciers, and little bit of Pacific to
Puerto Natales in Magelanes at the deep south of Chile- That’s my forward
plan.
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