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2nd November 2003
Its Sunday, most shops are closed - could not do the necessary shopping for
the tomorrows voyage - will have to do it tomorrow before boarding the ship.
To make use of the day, decided to make a day trip to the town of Castro in
the large “Chiloe Island”. Just below Puerto Mont is a very longish body of
water, made up of Gulf of Ancud and Gulf of Corcovado - respectively
connected to Pacific at the top and bottom of Chiloe Island through narrow
channels.
I had time limitation, so took a return bus trip with two hours of wandering
around the town of Castro - 3 and ˝ hr, each way, including a 45-minute
ferry trip across the channel connecting Gulf of Ancud and Pacific. The
landscape is a strange interspersed patchwork of arid treeless patches and
pastures of lush green rolling valleys - very strange contrast, I do not
know what caused this strange patchwork - maybe it is the combined work of
natures greatest sculptors, the volcanoes and the glaciers - I have already
seen, what amazing variety of landscape they can create.
Another strange phenomena, along the roadside, there were wild thick bushes
of bright yellow flowers; I have been seeing them everywhere since crossing
back to Chile in Peulla. When I asked around, somebody explained, with a
very grim face - these are not natural beauty, it’s a man made ecological
disaster:
Some time during the 19th century there was a large German immigration in
Chile, since then many Germans settled in Chile, mostly in the area between
Valdivia and Puerto Montt. At some stage in 19th century some Germans
brought these yellow flower plants from Germany as a fencing plant for their
homes and gardens. But they did not realise, while Germany is cold and dry,
this part of Chile is, although cold but very humid with average 260 days of
rain per year. In that humid weather, these plants just spread like wild
weeds - spreading everywhere, taking over land from native plants. Chileans
appears to be resigned to this ecological disaster - I heard many times,
nothing could be done!
In my rush, I could not visit the Southern Part of Chiloe Island, which I
heard, has some spectacular landscape and views - I was a bit disappointed,
missing it out.
3 - 6 November 2003- the wonderful little voyage
Chile, south of Puerto Montt, looks like a shattered piece of glass - as if
God was not happy with his initial creation, and, in frustrated anger,
gauged it indiscriminately - massive glaciers from the last ice age were his
gauging tool, as they descended to pacific.
The voyage to Puerto Natales, located just above the Magelanes, is through
the gulfs and natural channels and fords in this shattered part of Chile. I
somehow got the impression that part of the voyage will be through the
glaciers - I was wrong, glaciers are further to the west and south of the
route - slight disappointment, however I will be seeing other glaciers in
the south.
Around 9:00 am I reported at Navimag (the shipping company) terminal and
collected my boarding pass and meal tickets (included in the price). Quickly
done my necessary shopping, email, completed the diary and lunch and went
back to the boarding terminal.
At the boarding terminal I saw many travellers, whom I met somewhere else
along the road. Among them were Jackie (the Australian girl at the Argentine
border post) and her travel companion. Later I also met Paul, the young
Australian I mat at the top of Santa Lucia in Santiago, he has changed his
plan and instead of heading north he is now going south - making the same
voyage.
I have been planning to make this trip through South America since I was
sailing as a Marine Engineer (Originally inspired by Che’s Motorcycle
Diary). My original idea was to make the trip along the Pan-American
Highway, starting the trip from Chile and ending in USA, taking six month to
one year. Due to time constraint and the changed global circumstances, I
dropped that plan, and decided rather to do it in segments.
I got most of my planning information from lonely planet guide. In my
current travel I am following the route, popularly known as the Gringo
(South American Slang for Americans or English speakers) Trail. As I travel,
I find that too be largely true - most of the travellers are from Anglo
Saxon countries, with little sprinkle from Switzerland, Germany, Holland and
Spain and a few Argentinean or Brazilians. Almost all long term travellers
(1yeear or more) are either Australian, English or New Zealander - most
travel alone or at the most as a couple - most are very independent and
strong individuals, and very decent people - always ready to help a fellow
traveller – and most with very liberal outlook.
In Chile and Argentina there are large contingents of young Israeli
travellers. Loud-mouthed Americans are normally on shorter trips - Germans
mostly travel in groups for short duration and generally keeps to themselves
- a strange thing for travellers. I am yet to see any other Moreno or black
travellers - even Japanese, who are so conspicuous in Australia and other
parts of the world, are missing on this trail.
We boarded the ship M V Magellanes around 3:00 PM and sailed one hour later,
right on time, ever efficient Chileans. There were altogether about 60-70
passengers, most, like me, travelling in the cheapest economic class,
dormitory type accommodations - a small minority in the few expensive cabins
-They are tourists, and we are backpackers.
There are 22 bunks in a dormitory, separated into mostly 4 bunks per
cubicle, 2 upper and 2 lower bunks. I got a lower bunk - cramped space -
only enough to manoeuvre into the bed, one at a time -getting into the upper
bunks requires special acrobatic skills, particularly for the tall ones -
first night I had to help untangle a tall German, who got stuck half way
through getting into his upper bunk.
Anyway, once safely in the bunk, beds are quite comfortable, there are even
curtains to provide some privacy, and there is a private locker alongside
the bunks for each person.
I got a dormitory with a large German group, in our cubicle, Initially we
were three, one German man, one German women and me - later Mr. Yip (Hong
Kong) joined us, taking one of the upper bunks - he did not like his
allocated bunk near the toilets.
A very sour Yip was lamenting how he has been repeated robbed in Peru and
Bolivia - probably robbers mistaking him as a rich Japanese tourist. Now he
was so paranoid of loosing his belongings that all through the voyage he was
moving around with few pieces of luggage strapped around him. In spite of
people assuring him that his belongings are completely safe onboard. But Yip
was unmoved; he remained a walking-lamenting luggage for rest of the voyage.
Cramped bunks were designed for sleeping only - dormitory passengers spend
the days, on the many spacious decks if the weather is good, or in the large
spacious lounge bar or in the large dining hall cum movie theatre. The
lounge bar acts as the center of all passenger activity and socialisation.
Passengers were mostly composed of nationalities as I described earlier.
Notable exception was a lone man from Hong Kong named Yip and a Surinam born
Dutch family, a mother and two daughters- Natasha and Katia.
Weather was good, as soon as on board, high-spirited travellers started
mingling around, getting to know each other, chatting, and exchanging travel
tales. The atmosphere was so friendly, everybody so eager to know others;
soon one forgets that he has just met these strangers.
There is a huge chase board painted on the large open upper deck behind the
lounge bar, with large wooden chess pieces. Soon, Amit, Jackie’s travel mate
invited me to play a game (at the terminal we were talking about it). In the
next few days I played many games there and indoor, with all the onboard
chess players - I won most games and was unofficially acclaimed the
champion.
It also proved a very effective means of socialisation for me. By the end of
the voyage, I knew almost everybody and most knew me. It was also helped by
the good-natured curiosity about the lone Indian looking man.
Remarkable among all the new friends I made were, Jack and Rosalin, a KIWI
-Australian Couple.
First evening was mostly spent socialising - shores of gulfs of Ancud and
Corcovado were far way with only the outlines of the hills and mountains
being visible. Sky was overcast; there were no opportunity for stargazing of
the southern sky, many were disappointed - moreover, increasing chill of the
night gradually pushed most people to the lounge-bar.
Next day we entered the narrow channels, shores were quite close, in that
turning and weaving channels spectacular landscapes were appearing with
regular frequency. Every time the ship was approaching a spectacular spot,
the navigator on duty will blow ships horn to alert the passengers - we all
rushed to the deck with cameras - in this age of digital camera, almost
every traveler is a photographer.
Early afternoon, in response to our request, two Brazilians and me
(Automobile Engineers from Sao Paolo) were taken down for a quick visit of
the Engine room. It was a rather small and cramped engine room - older
manned engine room. Twin controllable pitch propellers driven by two V8
Wartsila diesel Engines. After a quick look around and few photographs we
returned to the decks, a bit disappointed.
By the late afternoon (in this part sunset is around 9 PM), as we approached
pacific, sea was getting a bit choppy and the ship started rolling gently
(nothing for seafarers). Generally smiling faces of many passengers were
getting an increasingly distressed look - less and less people were on the
upper deck or in any of the lounges. I saw many taking seasickness tablets
in anticipation of rough seas - first in pacific and then in the dreaded
Gulf of Penas (in bad weather, which is normal in this part of he world,
Gulf of Penas can have up to 12 meter high waves).
I remembered that I got badly seasick in my very first voyage as a seafarer-
I was a bit worried, I have not sailed for last ten years, who knows how
would I fare? - Fortunately my sea leg held. Once I was sure I am holding
fine, I was tempted to go and see the misery of the others - soon I was
punished for my temptation:
I went down to our dorm, as I entered, I came across a German with a very
distressed face - I asked - Are you all right? - He managed a sort of brave
smile and said “I am fine, very fine, just little bit tired, that’s all” _ _
_ then abruptly his face become contorted, and he came out OOOOOOOWAGH -
luckily I was watching his face, and managed to jump out of the main thrust
that filthy, gushing torrent -lower part of my trouser got some secondary
splashes from the ground- furious at myself, I went off to wash my trouser -
I can help them to untangle, but not with OOOOOOOWAGH.
We were lucky, the Gulf of Penas was rather calm; in the good seas the ship
crossed the gulf in six hours (in rough seas it can take up to 12-14 hours)
by early morning the ship was once again in the calm waters of narrow
channels. As usual, I woke up around 6 AM and walked up to the bridge to
have a cup of coffee - I have befriended the Chief Officer, officer on duty
for 4-8 watches. Knowing that I was an ex seafarer, he was quite eager to
exchange old sea stories over coffee.
Around 8 AM we passed a rusting shipwreck, a small British ship that got
grounded on a rock many years back- now it also serves as lighthouse in this
narrow channel. Around 9 AM we arrived at Puerto Eden, a picturesque small
sleepy port, which is the sole supply base for the surrounding areas. The
ship briefly anchored here to unload some supplies and to take on few
passengers.
The day was bright and sunny; we mostly spent the day watching the
magnificent passing landscapes, which were changing with every turn of the
ship in these narrow winding channels. There were occasional dolphin
sightings - late afternoon we eventually sighted a whale sprouts at some
distance, soon the whale dived down, giving us just one glimpse of its
magnificent tail. Manny passengers were disappointed that we did not see
much of the exotic marine life, supposed to be living in these waters.
During dinner we were informed that due to good weather, we would be
arriving at our destination Puerto Natales around 7 AM next morning - few
hours earlier than expected. Many groaned - they would have to get up early
in the morning to pack up for the early disembarkation.
After dinner, the crew arranged for a brief bingo session - miraculously one
Spanish guy won all the prizes. Around 10 PM the end of voyage party began
in earnest, initially with popular chart music, but as the night wore on, it
switched to Latin, with its unique fast rhythms - the party got more wilder
- a large number stayed on till it was closed at 2 AM.
We arrived at Puerto Natales, a small port on a windswept plain with peaks
of Torres Del Paine Range at the background. The ship arrived early,
there was another ship at the berth - so after a short delay we had to disembarked in
a boat from the anchorage - many were saying, we could do with few more days
on the ship - The voyage and the company were so marvellous.
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