|
6th and 7th November 2003
On disembarkation at Port Natales, as we started walking through the main
road towards wherever everybody else was heading - a gentle looking big
Chilean passed me a pamphlet of his guest house - called, Hospedaje Nancy-
inviting me to stay at his hostel for $6/day for a single room.
Jack and Rosalin, an Australian couple with whom I became very friendly on
the voyage, were passing by and asked me which guesthouse was it? – When
they heard it is Nancy’s, they were elated - they were looking for it,
somebody has recommended it to them on the voyage - we immediately decided
to go there - and Nancy’s husband Emanuel took us to the guest house in his
huge van - just a few minutes drive away on the main street ‘Bulnes’, near
the town center.
It is a very cosy and warm guesthouse; ever smiling Nancy and Emanuel were
always there to ensure maximum comfort for the guests. In addition they
provide any information one requires doing all kind of bookings for us.
Nancy speaks halting English, Emanuel none - but this big gentleman took
every effort to make up for this shortcoming.
Most people come to Puerto Natales to trek through the mountain ranges of
nearby Torres Del Pain National Park. Due to its rugged but beautiful
terrain, some unique and spectacular geological features and wild freakish
weather (one may experience extremes of four season in a day), it is
considered one of the most challenging and unique trekking destinations in
the world.
Most backpackers do a 4-5 day trekking ‘W’ shaped trail covering the most
spectacular spots around the center of the mountain ranges. More hardy
professional trekkers go for few weeks trekking all around the park,
generally with their self-sufficient camping gears.
In the harsh environment of Torres del Paine, there are only two options for
trekkers, either to have self-sufficient camping gears or to have sequential
booking for the mountain lodges (providing food, shower, bunk, sleeping bags and other essential supplies) along the Trek. The lodges are generally
spaced at a day’s trekking distance. Therefore, even with the booking at the
lodges, once on the trek one is on his own, no external help or guidance is
available till the next lodge. Generally, most trek in small groups of twos
and threes for their own safety.
Those averse to hard trekking, just go for a day trip in a bus to the two
outer connection points, just to have a distant peek, that also if the
weather is clear. That was my meek intention. I mainly came to Puerto
Natales to make the voyage and to go further south in Magelanes. I knew
about the physical fitness and endurance required for the hard trekking in
Torres del Paine - and thought that it is not for smoker like me,
particularly after living like a couch potato for last few years.
Well once again, like white water rafting in Pucon, Jack and Rosalin
encouraged me - if I have come this far, I must give it a go. They were
going for the short 4-5 day trek and invited me trek along with them.
That invitation encouraged me, although, they will be camping with their own
gear, I will have to get the booking for the lodges, as I neither had any
camping gear nor did I have any intention to try camping out in that harsh
weather.
After much pondering, on the 6th afternoon I tried to get booking for the
all four mountain lodges along the planned 4-day trekking route, beginning
the next day, 7th November. Most people I travelled with on the voyage to
Puerto Natales were booking for the same trip. Unfortunately, one of the
mountain lodges got booked out due to the rush (while I was pondering), and
I had to book for the trip beginning on Saturday the 8th November. I was a
bit disappointed, so were Jack and Rosalin - they were going on the next
day.
Anyway, once decided, I wanted to do it - quite a number of people I knew
were also going on Saturday. Spent the 7th, buying dry foods and a few other
supplies for the trek, including a rain pant and renting a smaller backpack
- I did not need to carry my big backpack as I would not be camping and
would only be carrying bare essentials to keep the weight of my backpack to
a minimum. Also wrote up most of my diary for the Puerto Montt-Puerto
Natales voyage.
8th November 2003
Previous day was sunny, but windy and chilly. Today is bad - cloudy, windy
and it soon started drizzling - a bad day to begin trekking for any body,
more so for a novice like me.
Around 7:30 AM the bus to Torres del Paine picked up few fellow trekkers and
me. It was a 2-hour slow bus ride along the gravelled roads through
windswept bald hills and grazing pastures. The weather was getting worse,
most of the distant peaks of Torres Del Paine were invisible above the
clouds - our spirits were sinking. The bus dropped us at the entrance of the
park, from there smaller micro buses transferred us to the starting point
near the ‘Lodge Torres’, just few kilometres down the road.
The park has two entry and exit point at the two bottom corners of the ‘W’
trail - ‘Lodge Torres is one, the other is Lodge Pehoe, which can only be
accessed through a twice a day Catamaran service through lake Pehoe,
connecting to the bus service on the other side. Once somebody has started
trekking, only way to exit is to trek back to one of these two points - no
easy way out. At the bottom of the ‘W’ lies the lakes NORDENSKJOLD and PEHOE,
and along the western arm lies Lake Grey with Glacier Gray descending into
it from the northern peaks.
The mountains rise from the lakes - lakes were formed from the snowmelt and
rainwater from the surrounding mountains. Eastern arm of the ‘W. leads to
the base of the unique 1000m high Granite columns or TORRES (main
attraction-after which the park is named) through a sloping high valley.
Middle part of the ‘W’ is the French Valley, another sloping high valley,
past the French glacier leading to the base of the highest snow-capped peaks
in the Park. Left or western arm of the W goes up and down the ranges along
Lake Gray up to the Glacier Grey.
Our route began with the eastern/right arm of the ‘W’ - leading up to the
bottom of the Torreses - on the way we will pass the ‘Chilano Lodge’, where,
those staying there for that night could leave their backpack, before
proceeding with the steep climb to the base of the TORRES - I plan to do
that.
Those camping out on their own, camp near the base of the Torres. It was
cloudy, windy and drizzling. Normally on a clear day the Torres and other
peaks are visible from far away, but today nothing was visible from the base
of this ranges - many were upset that even after climbing to the base of the
Torres they might not be able see them due to the clouds.
Anyway, at Torres everybody is at the mercy of the freakish and terrible
weather, we ere hoping that later in the day we may get some clear windows.
At a shade near the Torres Lodge we put on our rain pants and parkas, and
started walking along the trail, the large group soon splintering into
groups of one or twos. Knowing that I will soon slow down, I was walking
alone- not intending to obligate others to slow down for me.
Trails tends to disappear in marshy or rocky stretches, and one has to watch
each step on these rocky and uneven trails - there is a constant risk of
twisting ones ankles or slipping, if one is not careful.
Beginning was relatively easy, moderate up and down trail, leading to a
steep but small 50 meter climb, then little more of up and down leading to a
steep and continuous 500m climb. This climb will lead us to a high valley
where ‘Lodge Chilano’ is located - from there another two hours of trekking
to the base of the Granite columns, of which first bit is relatively easy
climb, but the last stretch is hard 200m steep climb over snow covered
rocks.
I was quite Ok till the 500m steep continuous climb, half way through it I
was grasping for breath, my thigh muscles were getting cramped - stopping
frequently I kept climbing, streaming rainwaters and snowmelts were making
the steep trail quite slippery for my tired legs. Most of these young
trekkers were overtaking me quite comfortably, a few older ones were
struggling - although, not as much as me.
Around three quarters of the way up that slope, I even started to think
about quitting and returning to ‘Torres Lodge’ - still visible at a distance
from the height. A trekker coming from the opposite direction told me I am
almost near the top of the rise (I could not see, as only after every bend
and rise, another rise becomes visible). So I kept going, and eventually
reached the apex of that rise, I was on the snow line and could see the
Chilano Lodge at a distance, at a slightly lower elevation in the middle of
that high valley.
I was exhausted, but felt great (may be like Tenjing on Everest, but at that
puny 800m height). I realised how fit those mountaineers are.
Then I sat down for a drink, and off-course for a smoke (a pocket my
backpack was full of cigarettes - what a ration for trekking!).
As I was resting at the top, Jack and Rosalin appeared around a bend, from
the opposite direction. They cheered me up- saying that I have already done
the hardest bit - they were telling the half truth to cheer me up - hardest
bit is the 200m climb to the base of the Torres - it cheered me up anyway.
Yesterday they camped near the base, but did not attempt to climb to the
base as they could not see the Torres hidden above the clouds - they were
disappointed. After a brief chat and a couple of photos, we headed in
different direction - them towards the next camp near Lodge Cuernos and me
on the easy trail towards lodge Chilano.
After lunch and a short break, I gathered enough courage and energy to begin
the next part of the trail - my legs were still feeling like jelly.
Even the first, supposedly easy stretch was not that easy, this was above
the snow line, though, rain has stopped, by now previous nights snow has
started to melt from the days heat, making the up and down trails very
muddy, and slippery- both way.
Morning’s trekking was through almost windswept, barren treeless steeps, but
afternoon’s trek was through beautiful alpine forest at the base of the
snowline. 1 hour through the trek sun suddenly shone, and there were those
magnificent Torreses (these are not ordinary peaks, rather large piece of
earths crusts projected upward during some violent tectonic movements 12m
years ago). Although I was still an hour away from the base, I grabbed the
opportunity to take few shots of those Torreses from a clearing - who knows
how it may turn out in few minutes!
As I proceeded near the base, to higher altitudes, snow was getting thicker,
and there were increasingly dangerous black ice on the trail, formed by the
footsteps of the preceding trekkers. I was right, soon dark clouds engulfed
the Torreses, and it started snowing with strong wind gusts. My shoes did
not have spikes to walk on those black ices. It was getting too risky; I had
enough of trekking for the day and decided to return to the lodge.
Soon after returning to the lodge, the sky cleared again- and those
magnificent towers were shining in the setting sun, soon thick clouds
returned, with gusty and chilly winds - and a little later it started
snowing heavily. Although, it was so nice to watch sitting beside the
fireplace in the lounge of the lodge, we felt sorry for the folks camping in
the open after a day of hard trekking.
The dinner at the lodge was, simple but generous and good, though relatively
expensive. After dinner, spent the evening chatting with Margaret (a French
lady living in England, travelling most of the year) and Louise and Sharon - they were also staying at
Nancy’s guesthouse.
We retired around 11 PM, everybody was so tired. My small room had 6 bunks,
3 in a column, no bed linen are supplied, everybody sleeps in their sleeping
bags -own or rented from the lodge, I rented one. I was also lucky, there
was only one other person in my room - I slept like a dead man.
9th November 2003
After breakfast, I waited for an hour to get an opportunity to take few
Snaps of Torreses in the direct reflection of the morning sun- bad luck - it
remained cloudy, although calm and dry.
Trekkers have began leaving since 6 AM, around 9 AM me and few others
started the five hour trek to the next lodge, CUERNOS - a short rise back to
the height, which was so difficult for me yesterday - this time it would be
mostly a long diagonal descent (I definitely prefer) -then a rolling up and
down track along the lake Nordenskjold -before a final 2 hour of more
difficult crossing of the western ranges of Cuernos Del Paine along the lake
- these are very rocky, but not higher than 300m, and rises are staggered -
finally reaching the lodge at a sheltered cove along the lake at the feet of
the highest peak of Cuernos Del Paine.
Compared to yesterday, today’s trekking was less strenuous; we were
absorbing the surrounding much more - stopped at many spots to take
photographs watching condors flying high and diving down and geeses
courting, sudden stretches wild bright red flowers - then suddenly entering
a deep canopy of thick forest with the darkness of late afternoon.
As we started to traverse the ranges and started moving in north easterly
direction, the landscape and he coastline of the lake was changing with
every turn - so were the winds, it was picking up and getting stronger,
particularly at the heights it was strong enough to trip somebody backward,
if one is not careful.
We reached Lodge Cuernos around 3 PM; we took almost 6 hours due to many
stops and leisurely pace. Settings of these timber lodges are really
spectacular - their sights brings relief to exhausted legs and cheers up
even the most tired trekker -the thought of a hot coffee - and relaxing in
such a spectacular setting after a hot shower.
There were many known faces, Including Jasper (Dutch) and Tina (Danish),
whom I met in Nancy’s and have become quite friendly. Last night they were
camping near Lodge Chilano in a rented tent from the lodge - they had a
freezing night. To night they were staying in the lodge - they had enough of
camping.
Dinner was good but small - the lodge was full with people coming from both
directions. Spent the evening chatting around with old and new acquittances.
Later on the evening met the two Brazilian engineers, whom I met earlier on
the voyage to Puerto Natales - these two hardcore mountaineers were camping
in the Torres Del Paine since getting off the ship they were in the lodge to
get some supplies and to take shower.
I again had a six-bunk room, but not so lucky this time, the room was full,
as the lodge was - two Japanese Brazilian Girl a Spanish man, an Australian
couple and me. But it did not matter - I slept well.
10th November 2003
The day stunned everybody, clear sunny sky, no wind - probably we are having
one of those rare perfect weather in Torres Del Paine - a perfect day for
trekking. If completely followed, today’s middle of the ‘W’ is supposed to
be the hardest and longest trekking day - 9 to 10 hours trekking for a fit
trekker:
Two hours from Lodge Cuernos over a rocky up and down trail to Camp Italiano
at the base of the French valley (a junction - left trail goes to Lodge
Pehoe the straight one to French Valley) - then one hour steep climb over
huge boulders and rocks to a clear lookout or MIRADOR - then one hours
rolling trail through forests along the snow line to Camp Britanica-
finally, a steep 45 minute climb to the final lookout for a VERY PRIVILEGED
view of the highest peaks in the park! THEN - same 2hr 45 minute trek (over
the boulders it takes same time climb or to come down) to get back to Camp
Italiano junction for further two hours trekking to Lodge Pehoe - my next
stop.
VERY PRIVILEGED view or not, I was very determined that, if I can endure,
only privileged view will do for me - I will go only up to the first lookout
at the French valley - if I can climb the steeps over those huge boulders.
Those who were for Very Privileged view’ started early - I started earlier
than yesterday. The stunning day lifted everybody’s spirit - even mine!
It was relatively easy trekking over the rocky trails up to camp Italiano
junction – in front of me was that steep boulder climbing to the first
mirador. I rested for a while, then to make it a as easy as possible, I left
my backpack hanging on a tree, intending to pick it up on my way back.
A roaring river flows alongside camp Italiano coming down from French
valley, fed by French Glacier, and snow melts from the surrounding peaks. As
soon as we came out of the cover of the trees, French glacier and the snow
covered valley and the peaks that feed the glacier, were shining in bright
sun of the day - occasionally huge chunks of ice was breaking off and
crashing down with thunderous roar.
It was my first glacier sighting; initially I mistook the glacier as strange
finger like white stone formation at the base of the peaks - they had
windblown blackish volcanic soil covering, making the look like part of the
surrounding hills. These are so tightly compressed ice - compressed over how
many years by how many million tons of snow, who knows.
Anyway, as I begin climbing the boulders, soon I became unaware of the
stunning surrounding and it’s rugged beauty - I was becoming more and more
aware only of - my creaking knee joints, slackening leg muscles and above
all preserving myself, particularly my ankle - one wrong step could twist my
ankles. However, although the climb was tougher, I did not feel as strained
as on the first day - probably I was getting a bit used to climbing and
climbing rhythms.
When I eventually climbed to the MIRADOR above the snow line, it was worth
it - in a perfect day, it really was a privileged view of most of the
highest peaks in the National Park - all glistening in bright sunshine - it
was past noon, with the increasing temperature, more and bigger ice blocks
were crashing down from the peaks with thunderous sound - the river was
getting bigger and its roaring more furious - as all mountain rivers does in
the afternoon, particularly in a warmer day like this.
I was tempted to go further to the next mirador, but the thought of the long
walk back to the lodge dampened that enthusiasm. After about two hours at
the mirador, I began climbing down. Over the boulders, climbing down was
even tougher - as in such a steep, body naturally tends to lean forward. It
took me the same time to climb down.
After a brief rest at Camp Italiano and a complementary coffee from the
workmen building a wooden hut there, I began a more relaxed two-hour
trekking to Lodge Pehoe at the shore of lake Pehoe. It was definitely the
easiest part of the Trek - on the way met Natasha, Katiya and their mother
(The Surinam born Dutch family - I met in the voyage) coming from the
opposite direction - they were staying at the lodge Pehoe taking a walk up
to Camp Italiano, and would return to Lodge Pehoe. Soon Jasper and Tina
caught up with me - they started earlier than me but went up to the second
Mirador in the French valley - mind it, I was not walking slowly, Jasper is
6 feet eight and Tina is about 6 feet, - from there with Giant Jasper as our
lead man we reached the lodge in no time - in total it was my longest and
hardest day of trekking.
I was already considering returning to Puerto Natales next day without
completing the last arm of the ‘W’ up to Glacier Gray. Jasper, Tina and many
others I knew were returning the next day. Jasper and Tina planned to go
half way towards the glacier and then return to catch the noon boat and the
connecting bus to Puerto Natales - I decided that I will do the same, except
that tomorrow I am not doing any trekking, not even going halfway like Tina
and Jasper - my excuse, I am soon going to see the greatest glacier of all,
the MORENO glacier in El-Calafate, Argentina
- When one does not want to do something, there is no shortage of excuses!
For the first time, I also came across an Indian couple, Paren and his wife,
both Indian born British, travelling with a British group around South
America for the last two months - one more month two go.
The lodge was very crowded - many known and many unknown- some even slept in
the dining area. I got an 8-bunk room, all occupied, bunks at every level -
one even going half way through between two other bunks in a right angle.
Seeing the bizarre bunk arrangements, I chose a top bunk – at least nobody
is going to crash on me and I will have little more air space.
11th November 2003
Anyway, no problem in that crowded room, I slept like a dead man. But as
usual, when I woke up around 6 AM, there was a snoring orchestra on full
swing, playing at varying pitches and amplitudes - I was not sure whether
one of the instruments stopped, when I woke up.
I quietly got down, and tip toed out of that room away, from that orchestra,
lest I interrupt any of the instruments of that reverberating orchestra. But
there was no escaping; the lodge was brimming with snorers - snoring
orchestra was playing in every room, biggest one in the dining area, one
particular instrument with very powerful lungs and big gaping mouth was
providing the base drum for the whole lodge. - I went out for a walk around
the lakeshore, and returned just before breakfast.
Lazed around rest of the morning chatting with staff and lodgers - Tina and
Jasper went for the half trek, but felt too tired and returned soon. Quite a
few of us took the noon boat and returned to Nancy’s at Puerto Natales.
|
