|
23rd November 2003
Last night I slept quite well in the Cama Suite bus, seats as well as
suspensions of these Volvo buses are so good - moreover, dinner and other refreshments
were generous. As we started just about dusk, I could not see much
of the landscape. By the morning the landscape has changed to lush green pastures, soon
giving away to subtropical hilly forests as we approached Iguazu - soil
turned red, although lush green vegetation is there, I could see solid
layers of rock just beneath the thin layer of top soil - that probably
explains the absence of agricultural fields. Since morning, the bus stopped
at quite a few small and medium towns, mostly to offload passengers. I went
out to in most of them to stretch my legs and offcourse to have a quick
smoke. Heat and humidity were also increasing; it felt a bit strange, after
being near snow and mountains in the south for last few weeks. The towns on
the way are a mixed bag, some prettier than others, but otherwise ordinary -
the differences probably reflecting their individual economic situation. As
we were approaching Iguazu and Argentina's border with Brazil and Paraguay -
the people in general were getting darker, obviously Indian origin or mix.
We arrived at the town of Iguazu right on time, around 11:00
am. It was
steaming hot and humid - I got into the nearest guesthouse to get away from
the heat and to wash up - no relief there, it was equally hot inside.
Had some quick lunch and then went to a tourist information office to plan the visit to
Iguazu falls - as the day was half gone, I planned to do most of the falls
that day and leave the biggest one, the Devils throat for the next day (it
also happens to be the furthest from the entrance of the Iguazu Falls
National Park). Bought a bus ticket for the park and a ticket for speedboat
ride under the falls. It was a short half an hour ride from the central Bus
station to the entrance of the Iguazu Falls.
From the entrance one can take
a short monorail ride or an alternative shortcut ten minute walk to a point
from where one can follow two viewing circuits - one through the catwalks
above the falls (excluding devils throat - which is a few kilometres away)
or take the lower circuit where the falls can be viewed from various points
on opposing hillocks at a level lower than the falls, at the bottom of this
level is the lake/river, where one can take a boat trip to go directly under
the falls and get soaked by the spray of the falls.
I first took the lower circuit, winding pathway gradually going down and
getting closer to the falls. The Iguazu river flows from Brazil on and near
the Argentine border it spreads out on a high plateau and then falls 80
meter down to a gorge all along a huge arc creating numerous waterfalls of
various size - together they form a spectacular view, there are permanent
rainbows on the falls on any sunny day.
I went through various viewing points to the bottom to take the boat trip
under the falls. I was caught unprepared, all others were in their under
garments or with waterproof gears - I was not at all prepared. I just put my
valuables in my day pack, hoping that it has enough water proofing, and for
my camera I took a poly bag to cover it as much as possible. The boats had
powerful outboard engines to go against the strong current created by the
falls and the Skipper was a stunt man. He carried out all kind of stunt
manoeuvres over the waves and under the falls with sudden bursting speeds, sudden
stop and hair raising turns - his aim was to get us soaked in spray as much
as possible. Under the heavy sprays it was almost impossible to take snaps -
one of the boat crew was filming videos with a waterproof video camera, with
the intention of selling the videos to the passengers. Somehow, I stole few
shots taking I out my camera out of the poly bag at opportune moments -
wondering how these will come out. I got totally drenched by the spray - at
the end of the trip I was shivering, even in this hot weather. Somehow my
daypack held and my valuables were safe and dry.
I immediately went for the upper circuit, if not for anything else, at least
to dry myself quickly in the setting sun. Walking over the catwalks, just
few feets from the edge of the falls and 2-3 feet above the water gushing
towards 80m falls gives an eerie feeling - at places looking at the angry
flow of the foaming torrents, I was feeling that any moment these catwalk me
may get washed away towards the falls - although, in reality catwalks are
very solidly anchored to solid rocks. It was few kilometre walks over the
swath of water flowing towards an arc of waterfalls. The swath is splintered
into many independent flows due rocky and uneven surface of the high plateau
- some flows are crystal clear, while others are muddy or reddish -
depending on the soil composition in their path. Due to the arc formation of
the falls - although, I could not directly see the fall I was standing on, I
had a very close view of the adjacent falls from the top. It is amazing to
see the water erosion patterns on the solid basalts - very slowly, but very
surely water is gradually changing the shape of the rock formation it is
flowing over. If one come back few hundred or probably thousands year later,
one would see a very differently shaped Iguazu falls.
I have never seen the much-vaunted Niagara Falls, but an American who has
seen it, told me that Niagara is a media and publicity gimmick, only the fall
there is much deeper, thats all - it is nowhere as spectacular as Iguazu!
Some say Iguazu looks most gorgeous under a full moon - well I had no
opportunity see it today
A little after sunset, I returned to Iguazu town took shower and went out
for a walk around the town, and dinner little later. Nothing much was
happening in the town it was still hot and humid. I returned to guesthouse
and retired early early next morning I will have to catch the 1st bus back
to Iguazu falls to see the Devils Throat and return to catch the 3:00 PM bus
back to Buenos Aires.
24th November 2003
Took the first bus and arrived at Iguazu National Park around 8:30 AM
There is a monorail service from near rhe entrance of the park to the
beginning of the 1km long catwalks towards the Devils Throat it takes
about 15-20 minutes. Got the first available monorail and arrived at the
catwalk and started walking towards the great Devils Throat.
The 1km long catwalk is over the vast expanse of water rushing towards the
falls interspersed with many tiny high spots doting that vast body of water
like tropical islands. In this area the Iguazu River spreads out on a wide
high plateau then rushes madly to 80 meter falls to a gorge on a very wide
arc most spectacular being the huge U shaped DEVILS THROAT.
As I was walking over the catwalk, that eerie feeling was back the catwalk
may anytime get washed away towards the falls it almost turns into a real
fear on the viewing platform above the Devils Throat. Indian tribes have
aptly named it it is really like a huge throat, opened its mouth wide to
suck in the Iguazu river, as if to quench its unquenchable thirst.
I could hear Devils Throat from quite far on the catwalk as I approached
it, mist and sprays rising from the fall became visible from quite a
distance the viewing platform and a large area nearby was completely wet
from the spray as I approached the platform, I got completely wet,
struggling to keep my camera dry under my T shirt. Unlike many, I did not
bring any raincoat.
Taking photographs became a real battle in the heavy spray there was
intermittent light wind blowing, I took advantage of it managed to get few
shots when there was a brief pause in wind. I think even then close up
photos would not be very clear because of the spray droplets on the lens and
the thick spray floating on the fall.
I was also getting worried about water damage to my camera I moved away
from the wet area to take few more snaps of Devils throat. Then lingered
around for quite a while watching this furious wonder of nature words can not
describe it, neither can still or video photographs one need to experience
it first hand to appreciate this furious beauty.
Soon after, I made my way back to Iguazu town. Made a short trip to Tres-
Frontera, the border point where three countries (Brazil, Argentina and
Paraguay meets.
I took the 3:00PM bus back to Buenos Aires another
18-hour bus ride.
|
