Part 1: Tahiti

Part 2: Rapa Nui

Part 3:  Santiago

Part 4: Pucon

Part 5: Sailing Through Andes

Part 6: A Wonderful Voyage

Part 7:Trekking Torres Del Paine

Part 8: Unpleasant Conversation

Part 9: Ushuaia

Part 10: Perito Moreno Glacier

Part 11:Buenos Aires

Part 12: Iguazu Falls

Part 13: Back to Buenos Aires

Part 14: Peninsula Valdes

Part 15: Mendoza

Part 16: Lima-Cusco 

Part 17: Sacred Valley of Incas

Part 18: Machu Pichu

Part 19: Puno and Lake Titicaca

Part 20: Adios

 

 

 

 

 

Part 13: Back to Buenos Aires

25th November 2003

The trip back from Iguazu to Buenos Aires was quite comfortable in Cama Suite sleeping seats. Arrived in Buenos Aires around 9 am. First thing, I bought a 8:00pm bus ticket for Puerto Madryn, near Peninsula Valdes for the next day. Then straight way I headed for the Hostel Inn Tango where I had advance booking for two days.

In the early afternoon, after a short nap and lunch, I took a local bus to upmarket Recolleta district of Buenos Aires – not to do any upmarket shopping or lazing around, but to see the most upmarket cemetery of Argentina, every guidebook lists it as a must see.

Argentina’s most famous and rich are buried here under spectacular tombs, often in vulgar competition with each other – vain human vanity. As I walked through the lanes between the tombs in that high walled cemetery – I could not help to see the age old quest of man to seek immortality somehow, at least symbolically – although, here it is at a much much smaller scale than Taj Mahal or or other grand tombs – underlying motivation is all the same.

After taking few photographs, I got bored with this vulgar display of human vanity and walked out of the cemetery.

Where to go now, I had no other plan for this afternoon – decided to take a long leisurely walk along Avenue Del Libertador towards Retiro – watching passing daily life in Buenos Aires – actually, it is my favourite past time anywhere – occasionally trying to spot most extraordinary in the midst of ordinary daily life.

It was a good walk, did not notice anything extraordinary though – or may have missed it, or may have seen it but  did not recognise - I reached the Plaza De San Martin near the center, as I was walking through the park I saw four soldiers led by a lieutenant, dressed in ceremonial red tunic of Spanish colonial uniforms marching down the stairs of the park – they were coming from the nearby Army headquarters. I followed them, sensing a photo opportunity – they led me to a memorial for soldiers fallen in Falklands war, located at the side of the park – it is a simple memorial with names of the fallen soldiers inscribed on a marble wall and had an eternal flame and flag post. The soldiers were there to lower the Argentine flag at sunset. I took few photographs of the flag lowering, and the marching soldiers.

I strolled on to the Florida pedestrian mall, the fashionable main shopping district in Buenos Aires. Soon I came across a street Tango show. Buenos Aires is the birthplace of Tango dance, more precisely the San Telmo area, where my hostel is located. A Tango show is a must see for anybody visiting Buenos Aires. I am yet to go to any show, but luckily I just came across a free street show. I joined the crowd to watch the show with my camera in ready.

Tango is a fast moving erotic dance with lot of jerky movements and entangled limbs – there was a lady and her two male partners, each taking turn to dance with her. One of them was an old elegant looking gentleman, he is a very elegant dancer too – holding the lady and moving so gracefully as if she is a very fragile thing. I put my camera in multiple shot mode to capture the delicate movements – I am not sure how good the photos will come, it was already dark and my built in flash is not that powerful.

Soon a smiling man appeared in front of me with an upturned hat stretched towards me. He was blocking my view so I tried to move to a side to continue taking pictures – he moved too, blocking my view again– after a few more futile attempts, I got the message – I must pay some PROPINA (tips) for taking the photographs – after all these guys are making a living.

As the show wound down, I went to check my emails and later had my dinner in a Carbon Parilla restaurant (charcoal grill) and returned to my hostel.

26th November 2003

Did not do much today – visited the Argentine Congresso (parliament) building and the adjacent Plaza del Congresso and took few photographs. Later developed some films, checked email, wrote some diary, took a haircut and had lunch before returning to the hostel for a nap.

Took the 8:00pm bus for Puerto Madrin – another 14-15 hour bus trip, this time in a Semi Cama bus – lets see how it goes, how well I sleep.
 

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