|
A Bangal Through Vietnam |
|
I grew up in Bangladesh during the Vietnam war. The war received extensive newspaper coverage there, and left an awe struck indelible impression on me. During the Vietnam War, in 1971 Bangladesh had its own Liberation War to gain independence from Pakistan. The Liberation War of Bangladesh lasted about 9 months. Living through the horrors of that brief war always made me wonder what kind of people can have such resolve, resilience and determination to fight for 30-long-years against two super powers - horrors and destructions of which were many more times intense than what we endured in Bangladesh during our Liberation War. I wondered in awe, what the Vietnamese people were made up of? Later on I went through many published literature and reports on Vietnam - these only intensified my desire to go and see these awesome people and the country they fought to liberate. This year, at last I got an opportunity to visit Vietnam between 27th October and 16th November 2006. During that period Vietnam was holding the APEC summit in Hanoi. And what a coincidence, the US President George Bush arrived in Vietnam on 16th November, the same day I left Vietnam. It was a brief visit, I wish I could have stayed much longer in that glorious country and its glorious people. Following feature is based on my visit, as much as I could capture. All views expressed here are my personal views, with my background, I could not help but get emotional in some places - please accept them as such. Moin Ahsan, 25 December 2006 |
|
Part 1: Ho Chi Minh City |
|
Click on a picture thumbnail to view it - click on the arrows on either ends to see more thumbnails |
|
27 Oct 2006 Arrived around 3:30pm greeted by a hot and humid blast - from the sky it looked like Bangladesh, with wide winding rivers and paddy fields, even the city looked like Dhaka - and the hot humid blast certainly felt like Dhaka. I had a telephone booking with a modest mini hotel called "AN AN Hotel" - they promised me that they will pick me up at HCMC airport - nobody was there to pick me up - as I was having a smoke and looking for any sign of the promised Hotel pick-up, few taxi drivers approached me - I knew from the lonely planet guide that they try to take passengers to hotels of their own choice where they can earn a few extra Dongs (Vietnamese currency) as commission - so I fended them off, all were very gentle and did not persist - except one character, he was very nice mannered too, but a smooth operator - soon he made me give up on hotel pick up and I took a ride to the hotel in his taxi - on the way he gave me a city map as a gift and then tried to convince me to go to some other hotel he was recommending - when he realised I won't budge, he quietly took back the map (the gift) without batting an eye lid and dropped me at " An An Hotel" On the trip to the hotel I was struck by the madness of the traffic -they come from every direction, irrespective of the traffic lights - but there are no traffic jams, though traffic speed is quite low -driving at 30-40 km. I tried to show my annoyance at the hotel reception for not being picked up at the airport - but, the hotel staff were so nice and sweet that I actually felt guilty for raising the issue - I got a very well maintained air conditioned room at the 7th floor for US$25/day with all amenities including a mini bar. It was drizzling slightly, I took a stroll around the Pham Ngu La area, where I was staying - the area is full of backpackers, mini hotels and numerous restaurants - I had fried Mud Fish and rice for dinner in one of the tourist type restaurants - it cost me about US$3. Not a bad first day - 28th October 2006 I started quite early today, around 6:30 am - when traffic is not so heavy - My biggest challenge today was to learn how to cross roads in HCMC - among its 4 million motorbikes that come from every direction, irrespective of traffic lights and traffic lanes. It took me around 10 minutes to watch and figure out the traffic characteristics - its simple, within the apparent chaos, Vietnamese drivers are quite conscious and alert about their's and other's safety. At a crossing just wait for the first rush of the turning traffic and start crossing - most bikers will look after you - one just need to keep a lookout for an odd errant biker - bigger vehicles look after everybody else - once you get the knack its easy. Motorbike rides are very cheap in HCMC around US$1/hr, and no vehicles in HCMC drive faster than 30-35 km/hour so not really that dangerous - but one get to breathe only poisonous fumes from 1000s of them driving ahead - people literally drive into a rushing cloud of fume. So walking or air conditioned taxis are much better options. While travelling I prefer to walk around the cities as much as possible. Bin tanh market - the famous Hawker market of HCMC just a short walking distance away from my hotel was already open for business - I bought a pair of sandals and an extra pair of shorts - it was already heating-up - in hot-humid HCMC everything else is useless. Took a long walk around central HCMC - visited the former South Vietnam's Presidential palace - now called the Reunification Palace - though not much of a palace, it was originally built for the French colonial Governor and used to be called "Norodom Palace". it became famous on 30th April 1975 - when the North Vietnamese lead tanks smashed through one of its gates and ended the Vietnam war. Those first two tanks are on display in front of the palace and now every part of the palace is open to public as a museum. Nearby War Remnant Museum is small but leaves a very strong impression on any body - this museum used to be called "War Crime Museum" - the name was changed probably as part of the condition for lifting US embargo/sanctions on Vietnam. That was the correct name - the photographs of the atrocities displayed there are not for faint hearted - particularly the ones on children. I had to return to my hotel by mid day - I had a lunch invitation at a Bangladeshi friend's place - he is an old Bangladeshi friend mow working in Vietnam as Marine surveyor. I got in touch with him before arriving here - I spent few hours with them - they live a bit far from center in an exclusive complex for expatriates. They are generally happy - as happy one can be away from familiar surroundings of Bangladesh - Bangladeshi satellite TV channels, a few Bangladeshi families and friendly Vietnamese environment help. I spent the evening around the fashionable Dong Koi shopping area in the central Saigon.
|
|
|
|
INDEX |
||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||
|
E-mail: nirbodh@gmail.com
|