Vietnam Vietnam

Part 5: Hanoi, Hyphong and Halong Bay

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3rd November 2006

On the way to Dalat airport, Ann and her mother sat at the back and me next to the driver. When Ann struck a conversation with the driver in Vietnamese, If I did not know who was talking, I would have never suspected that she is not a Vietnamese - she speaks perfect and fluent Vietnamese. While studying Asian Studies at the Australian National University in Canberra she was selected as the Young Australian Ambassador to Vietnam. That was the beginning of her connection with Vietnam. After completing her graduation she took up a position in Hanoi running various community aid programs. Her proud mother was visiting her.

During the flight to Hanoi I learned a lot about life in Hanoi, lingering differences in attitude between North and South Vietnamese (she also lived in Saigon for one year before moving to Hanoi)- it was quite enlightening for a first comer like me.

I arrived in Hanoi around midday and got into my pre-booked hotel in the old quarter of Hanoi along the Red River. Its an amazing bustling place almost 800 years old - part French colonial part Vietnamese architecture - every street named after a trade and even these days every street specialises in trading a broad category of goods - like old Dhaka - but except that streets are organised in neat blocks and they are tree lined and shady - like every where else in Vietnam - there are lot of traffic but no traffic jam - the area is full of loitering tourists, most of the backpacker hotels are located in this area.

Like in Saigon central area, I instantly took an intense liking of the buzzing area -spent the whole afternoon and evening loitering around, and sitting on pavement cafes chatting with locals and backpackers.

Next morning I will go to Hyphong to meet an old friend (Shamsul Bhai) who works there and then go to Halong bay with him.

4th November 2006

I took a two and a half hour bus ride from Hanoi and arrived in Hyphong around 10:30 am. I straightway braved a motorbike ride to my friend's hotel. Since taking his new job in Hyphong he permanently, lives in a hotel and visits his family in Saigon every alternate weekend.

I met him after about 25 or so years. How strange, since his passing out from the Marine Academy in 1976 our paths never crossed. He has not changed much, only gone slightly bulky with the passage of time - though he admitted his hair have gone completely gray - he keeps them dyed, as his wife would not have none of it.

We had a lot to catch up - we knew so little of each other's happenings since leaving the Academy. While catching up - we had lunch and then set off on a mini bus for Halong Bay. We were not careful and got swindled for the bus fare - this is the first time it happened to me in Vietnam.

We booked into a hotel and then for the rest of the day we explored Halong Bay water front, had some good food - but mainly we were catching up and gossiping.

Since arriving in Vietnam, it is a gastronomic extravaganza for me - I mainly struck with fish dishes - the variety of fishes and variety of their preparation are extensive and all are so delicious - it reminded me a comment from a Singaporean Chinese shipmate "whatever you Indians eat, you get the taste of curry only, we get the unique taste of each dish"

When I arrived in Vietnam first thing my friend advised me was - where to get Indian food. In all his years in Vietnam, he has not dared to try any Vietnamese food, fearing unknown. Particularly seeing snake, frog, rat and all other exotic items on the restaurant menus, he really got frightened. So much so - When he was first posted in Nha Trang away from his family in Saigon - his wife literally went there to teach a restaurant cook how to prepare Indian dishes and he ate only at that restaurant for many years.

Today I made him break his tradition and try few Vietnamese fish hot pots and other dishes - he instantly became a Vietnamese food fan - there is no other way - anybody who like to eat fish has to like it.

5th November 2006

In the morning we went on a boat trip in Halong Bay - Halong Bay is famous for its numerous limestone rocks and mini islands protruding through its surface and rising high like pinnacles - we cruised through these protruding rocks and visited a huge limestone cave in one small island. I am not going into detailed descriptions, as photos will express them better.

It was a very good catch-up time with Shamsul Bhai - he said, I never expected anybody to visit me in Hyphong - it was really a delightful experience. After the return from the boat trip we took a bus back to Hyphong and after a quick lunch Shamsul bade me farewell at the Bus station.

I arrived at Hanoi around 6:00pm and after dinner went to catch my overnight train for Lai Cao from where I will take a 30km trip to Sapa. Sapa is near Vietnam's North Western border with China - its located about 2000m above the sea level and considered the minority hill tribes capital of Vietnam.

I got a four berth slipper cabin with a Scottish guy called Jim and an Oldish French guy and his Thai girlfriend.  Although it is the best available class of sleeper in Vietnamese trains, it was just a basic sleeper coach. After a brief chat we all went to sleep. I was tired from last weekend's continuous journey and slept well.

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